You never built exact to the basic kit design. Some options and modifications are made to suite your own needs. After I began flying the airplane, I found some options and modifications useful and some not necessary. For example, after 130 hours, I have not used aileron trim yet. I used parking brake only once when I parked on a slope (used it before getting out of the airplane). Of course I have not used the alternate static port, however, it is an insurance policy that I hope I will never need. On this page I am documenting some information on those modifications and options. Hope they will be useful to you.

Index

Parking brake

I mounted the parking brake valve on the fire wall. Following are two pictures showing the installation.

I ordered the following parts from Aircraft Spruce:

MS21042-3 NUT, STOP MS21042-3
1.00 of 05-16245 CABLE "B" NUT CARB HEAT 222-4
1.00 of 06-17200 MATCO BRAKE PARKING VALVE
2.00 of AN3-12A BOLT UNDRILLED AN3-12A
1.00 of 05-15000 T-HANDLE DASH CONTROL 5' R-09

The handle of the control cable is shown in the picture in the Alternate Static Port section below.



Rudder Lock

I used a piece of stainless steel welding rod and bend it to a U. A orange "Remove before flight" flag is attached to the U. A hole is drilled on the rudder horn and another on the rudder stop. It can easily installed and removed and is light. This is not my original idea.

After rudder lock failed under strong wind gust, I replaced it with a 3/16" dia steel rod.

Chocks

A few years ago I saw a few RVs parked at my home field (in Indiana) they all use home made chocks. After I built my own RV I took their idea and built myself three chocks. They are made of 1/2" PVCpipe. Each chock uses two 90 degree union and three pieces of PVC pipes. Cut two pieces 5" each and one about 8" for nose and 9" for main. Glue than together and you got a light weight chock.











Aileron Trim

I installed the aileron trim and so far have not used it at all. If I am building again, I would not put one in.

Alternate Static Port

The alternate static valve is a union on the parking brake handle bracket (the location was an after thought and I run out of better place to mount it). I brought a nylon Tee (264-N 04) and a bulkhead union (282-N 04). The Tee is tied into the static line near the altimeter. The center is connected to the builkhead union. I simply applied some glue to seal off the nut and sleeve on one side of the union. Now, by a simple twist of the nut, the alternate static port is opened in the cockpit. My location is not ideal, but, it works fine.


Top last screw for wing root fairing

Use a shorter screw or grind off a normal length screw (AN509-8R8). A normal length screw impeded the up movement of the flap. Flap was not able to retract completely. One time I took one side off and lost the short screw. Unknowingly I replaced it with a normal length screw. You know what, I got a heavy wing!! It took me a while to figure out the heavy wing is caused by the unbalanced flaps. Of course, all these can be found on drawing #38, if you read it carefully.

Tow bar

I use a Bogi-Bar (4RVA) from Aircraft Spruce. Initially I used the nose wheel axle bolt and nut for towing. Then I switched to the Allen screws for the wheel pants. I figured that I can afford to damage the screws but not the axle bolt.

Canopy handle

Rounded the front of the canopy handle, make it more streamlined.

Oil door latch

The latchs from Van's stick out in the wind. They looks really bad. I ordered two Hartwell H-5100 latch from Wicks Aircraft Supply. Now there is nothing sticking out of the upper cowl.

2 x HD HARTWELL LATCH Part Number: H5100-2 (FLUSH HARTWELL) (H5100-2)
= $5.06




Fuel flow sensor

The instruction says put it after the electric fuel pump and have a 10"(?) straight line before it. I just can not find such a location for the sensor. At this end, I mounted it on the floor before the electric fuel pump. So far it worked properly. I don't see any surge of fuel flow reading when I turned on the electric fuel pump. Only down side I can think of is the lack of filter protection to the sensor. My engine is not fuel injected, so the pressure is low and there is no fuel filter installed.



Access panels on front top skin

Following Dan C's example, I cut the front top skin open and installed two access panels. The center of the aluminum panels are cut out and replaced by fiberglass. Originally I followed Dan C's example and built a little shelf on the firewall in the engine compartment for my GPS antenna. Unfortunately, it interfered with my cowl pin insertion. I moved the antenna to under the access panel. The other access panel is supposed to be reserved for the XM Weather antenna. The access panels also made access to the back of the instrument panel a little easier.

Recently I read on VAF forum that this mod change the critical stress path and is not recommended by Van. Since I did not do any stress analysis neither I read that anyone has done such analysis, I can not tell you it is safe to cut these two hole there. I will keep a close watch of the top skin and try to detect any sign of stress cracks.

Today (12/28/2007) on VAF I read the following: "I contacted Van's - the answer they gave was that they had no objection. John Stiegelmeyer". Well, it seems the access panel is fine.





Fresh air vent outlet cap

If you are using Van's standard vent outlet then you know it leaks. There is no way to make it air tight.

I found the following from Lowes:
American ValveŽ
1-1/2" Qwik Cap
Item #: 23490 Model: RPC40 $2.47
I removed the hose clamp then cut it half lengthwise. It fits perfectly over the fresh air vent outlet.

I regret to build the map box. It takes up precious panel space and make servicing instrument more difficult. If not because I have so much fun flying, I will spend time take the map box out.

Seat Back Brace

Even without the seat back brace I am already sit quite straight up. A little more reclined position would be better. My seat back brace was on only before I began flying. Now they just sit in my hangar. If you have not fabricate it, don't. It will save you a few hours.

Extra tire and tube to carry in the airplane

I decided to purchase two sets of main tires and tubes and one nose tire and tube. I leave one set of main tire and tube in my hangar and carry the rest. I figure that it must be hard to find RV size tires. It is better to have my own handy. I also carry a can of fix-a-flat onboard. I know the tire filled with fix-a-flat will cause vibration during the takeoff roll. But, if I have a flat on the runway, it is the fastest way to get the plane moved out of the way. Have you thought of a quicker way to move an RV off the runway with or without help? If you do, please share it with me. I definitely don't want to be the guy who tied up the only runway of a busy airport for a long time. If so, it will really make me popular.

Rudder Trim

My RV-9A does not need too much rudder input during takeoff. However, at cruise I noticed that the ball is on the left. Finally I brought some balsa wood strip and built myself a wedge. I glassed the wedge on the right side of the rudder trailing edge a few inches above the horizontal stabilizer. The wedge I use is 0.38" height, 1.5" wide and 4" long.

Avionics Cooling Fan

Spring is coming and temperature is getting warmer. I decided to install an avionics cooling fan. The fan (AK-950-F3-14V Ameri-King) is purchased from Aircraft Spruce. I mounted it on the co-pilot side under a plate that is hinged on one end to the subpanel and screwed in on the other end to the panel. platnuts are used on the plate for the fan and under the panel for the mounting plate. Fan is wired into the E-bus fuse box with an 1A fuse. 3/27/2007

Shortening Control Sticks

Finally, I shorten the control stick. I have read a lot about where one should shorten the control stick. I was convinced by the argument that the designer knows the best. The original stick length should be optimal. Since my stick handle adds a few inches to the length of the stick, I decided to shorten the stick so the overall length will be the same as the original stick. So far it flies well. 132 hrs, 4/3/2007.

In May during the Formation Clinic when other pilots flew my airplane they all commented that the stick is too long. I had to lift my arm to hold the grip and it makes formation flying difficult. Finally, today, I took the time to cut the stick again. At the same time, I decided to mount the co-pilot stick in a more permanent way (need to remove a screw to remove the stick). I also moved the PTT switch from the panel to the grip. I drilled and taped a hole for #8 screw. To remove the stick I have to remove the screw then cut the PTT wires. Now both pilot and co-pilot have PTT on the stick grip. 180 hrs, 6/11/2007. The stick length is 12" from the floor to the top of the grip.

Fiberglass prime

Gelcoated fiberglass parts such as wing tips need very little preparation work. However, cowling and gear fairings do have a lot of pin holes. To fill those pin holes I used the following product from Wicks.
1 x UV SMOOTH PRIME Part Number: SP-QT (SMOOTH PRIME UV PRIMER) (SP-QT)= $41.80

I sprayed it on before sanding. Gear fairings and pants need only one coat. However, Cowling need three coats.

Between seat armrest - 6/21/2007

For long cross country flight, an armrest is important. Today I built one using aluminum (032 thick). Following are some photos and a rough drawing with dimensions. I did not spent time to do the precise measurements. Instead, I used cardboard to build a model then took the dimension from the model. If you want to copy my design, please build a cardboard model and test install in your airplane first.

After installing the armrest, I realized that the cover interfere with the seat back. I ended trim the cover narrowly after the seat back. I also trim the aft part of the angle on the left side so I can push the seat back forward without rubbing it.

Download Armrest design in pdf

Parts before assembly (two halves, bottom, and cover)

Finished armrest, will need leather and foam for the cover

Cockpit view









Pre-amp for IPod

I have a GMA340 audio panel. When plugging in IPod or CD player on Music input, the volume is too low. On GMA340 manual there is a pin 15 on J2 that is supposed to boost the signal by 20 db. However, the unit must be MOD5 incorporated (I have no idea what it is). Obviously, it is not incorporated on my unit. I ended buying and building a pre-amp, Velleman-kit K2572 (http://store.qkits.com/moreinfo.cfm/K2572) for $17 plus shipping. It has a adjustable gain of 40db. I wired it into the E-bus power. Finally, I can enjoy music inflight.


Flight Tracking using APRS


APRS stands for Automatic Position Reporting System. It is part of Ham radio systems. In order to transmitt in APRS, one must have a Ham Radio license issued by FCC. I took the Ham Radio exam and installed a micro-trak 300 transmitter with GPS in my airplane. I mounted the GPS under the front access panel (fiber glass panel) and split the GPS output to both EFIS 2 and MT300. I used a stainless steel hinge pin and a broken transponder connector to build a belly bend antenna.










Now you can track my flight realtime on the following webpage (when asked for login just type anything then return): My last APRS flight track
An example page is shown below:

Mounting Oxygen Bottle - 5/14/2008


I have had oxygen bottle onboard for a long time. I built a little bracket at the bottom of the center seat column and used bungee cords to hold it in place. The problem of at that location is that I can not reach to turn it on. It is too close to my body to do so. Finally, I purchased two 5" stainless pipe clamps from Lowes ($3.08 each, part number: 7267721L) and used two aluminum strips to rivet to the baggage compartment side panel. Now I can reach it easily.










Oxygen Transfiller - 5/14/2008

Since I installed oxygen I used only one tank in a year. However, it is not that easy to get oxygen filled in this area. After reading about self-service oxygen refill, I decided to take the DIY approach. First, I ordered a Mountain High O2 Transfiller - TR-55 ($75). This for the standard CGA-540 fittings. My aviation oxygen bottle as well as the rental industrial O2 bottle use this fitting. If I had not purchased aviation oxygen bottle, I would get a medical bottle. A medical bottle uses CGA-870 fitting. A TR-875 transfiller will do the trick. My next step is to go to the local industrial O2 supplier to rental the big bottle. Such a bottle should last for a long time.

Cup Holders - 6/4/2008


I have been searching for cup holders for a long time. Finally I found one from boating catalog. The one I purchased is called "Mugger" by American Technology. It is mounted on the side with two screws.










Canopy Lock - 10/2/2008

I have been using the lock sold by Vans. The lock that fits into a hole in the canopy slide guide on top of the fuselage. It posses two problems: extra key to carry, and a big lock protrude on top of the fuselage. Since I uses the ACS key ignition, it comes with two extra locks. Finally, I decided to install one of those locks to my canopy skirt on the pilot side. I first drilled a #30 hole from the inside through the first lightening hole on the canopy skirt support. From the outside, I enlarged the hole to 1/2". Then, I use one of the piece on the lock as template to mark the odd shaped opening for the lock body. After the hole is marked, I used jewel's files to cut the hole. The lock is fitted into the hole and locked in by a brass nut from the inside. Now, I sit inside and close the canopy and mark the location of the lock arm on the sliding rail. Using a small drill I drilled a series of holes. Then, again I used jewel's files to open up holes and made them into a slot for the lock arm. After 2 1/2 hrs, the job is done.